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1) On Board the Bombay Express: A Rolling Feast of India: HE most important thing when traveling by train in India is
not whether you have a seat in first class (more
comfortable) or second class (more congenial), not whether
you have confirmed tickets or even your destination. The
most important thing is the size of your neighbor's tiffin
carrier, the Indian lunchbox. If you are lucky, you will be
seated near a generous Marwari matron whose way of making
your acquaintance is to hand you a hot roti stuffed with
potato saag.
I was 14 when this happened to me,
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